Smart Light Project

EQUIPMENT & RESOURCES

Smart Lamp Kit

Smart Light Shade Template

Blynk App & Account

iOS / Android device

Soldering Iron

Solder

Scissors

Glue Stick / Double Sided Tape / Glue gun

 

COMBINING 3D PRINTING, WOOD WORK AND SOME LINES OF CODE YOU ARE ABOUT TO MAKE AN AWESOME LED COLOUR CHANGING DESK LIGHT.  

This little project doesn't require you to have WiFi or an internet connection for the basic light to work. If you want to complete the 'taking it further' part of the project, you will need to sign up to some free web based applications. Please make sure you read the terms and conditions on the sites, and are happy with these before you sign up!


STEP 1 - the parts

Opening the kit pouch you'll find four types of part; plywood, 3d printed, electronic and mechanical. In addition to this you will also get a sticker! Whoop!

The plywood parts are cut on a CNC router, and make up the structural parts of the light. They are; the base top and the base bottom, and the two rectangular arms.

The plastic parts are printed on our 3D printers and make up the hinges that support the arms. They are made of PLA filament.

The electronic components are; an LED strip (these are 'addressable', more about that later), the breadboard (the block with rows and columns of holes), the tactile switch and cap, 3 sets of 'dupont' jumper wires, Wemos D1 Mini control board (and the pins that need soldering), and a USB lead for power.

The mechanical parts; 25mm hexagonal head M4 bolts, and M4 wing nuts are used to hold the hinges together.

The sticker... well that can go (almost) anywhere!

STEP 2 - ASSEMBLE THE BASE

Stack the two plywood base plates on top of each other.

The plate with the cut away corner lines up with the square corner on the other plate. The two rectangular holes will also line up. When the plates are together, the cut out will form 2 little 'nooks' which  will be the holes that the breadboard will line up with.

Take one of the plastic 'B' parts. Push this through the rectangular holes on both plates. This will be a tight fit, but will hold the plates together to make a sturdy base. When inserts correctly, the hole in the B part will stand proud of the base.

STEP 3 - ASSEMBLE A/B SHADE HOLDER 

Next up, we are going to make the 'Arm' of the light. The Arm is going to be built up from the lamp shade end, towards the base. You'll find we will repeat some of the steps, to make the top and lower sections of the arm. You'll see how it works...

The Arm is made up of the plastic parts that form hinges. The parts will go together like this: A to B, A to A, A to B (the one in the base).

Take an 'A' plastic part and a 'B' plastic part. On the opposite side to the embossed letters, there are hexagonal holes. One of these will be used to hold the bolt into place. 

The two parts fit together and are joined by a 25mm bolt and a wing nut. It doesn't matter which way round the bolt goes, the wing nut can end up on either side of the 'hinge'.

Next, find the Male/Male 'dupont' wire. These wires have pins on each end of the wire. Feed the wire through the large end hole, then through one of the smaller holes on the plastic A part. Take one of the plywood arms, press one end of the plywood into the large A part hole. Make sure to place the wire into the groove on the top of the plywood before you push the arm into the plastic part.

STEP 4 - ASSEMBLE THE A/A HINGE

Now that you have the first hinge done, we need to do the middle hinge. 

This time assemble two A plastic parts. 

The process will be the same as the first one we did. Assemble the hinge, making sure the bolt sits properly in the hexagonal hole. Then insert the other end of the Male/Male wire into one end of the A hinge.

Push the hinge onto the plywood arm, making sure to keep the wire pressed into the groove.

You should now have the top part of the arm complete! Yey!

STEP 5 - ASSEMBLE THE LOWER ARM

The lower arm assembly is much the same as the top, this time though we are using the Male/Female wires.

Follow the photos, making sure the wires are laid so that when we join them up in the middle, they join like for like to the other wire. Ensure that the Female end is the one that fits into the A/A hinge in the middle. That way the wires will connect.

STEP 6 - ATTACH ARM TO BASE

All that is needed here is to connect the arm assembly with the base. We are going to do that with another bolt and wing nut. 

Once you have done we can move onto the soldering! Double yey!

STEP 7 - PREPARE D1 CONTROLLER FOR SOLDERING

To make it a little easier to solder, we are going to setup the D1 mini circuit board on the breadboard. We have found it easier to do it this way, as it gives you a stable base to solder onto and it also means the pins will be soldered straight... which is always a winner.

 

STEP 8 - SOLDERING THE D1 MINI

STEP 9 - WIRING UP THE TACTILE SWITCH

STEP 10 - SOLDERING THE LED STRIP

STEP 11 - WIRING UP THE D1 CONTROLLER TO LED STRIP

STEP 12 - ADDING A PAPER SHADE

STEP 13 - GETTING READY TO PROGRAM THE D1 CONTROLLER

PROGRAMMING YOUR SMART LIGHT

BEFORE YOU START

Download and setup Arduino IDE

Download some Arduino libraries:

AdafruitNeoPixel 

BlynkSimple

ESP8266

SPI

WiFiManager

Download the SmartLight Sketch

 

 

TAKING IT FURTHER

Sign up to Blynk

Sign up to IFTTT

Setup some IFTTT applets

 

Congratulations! You have made it this far down the page! Epic right??

So now comes the programming part! Before going any further, take a look at the 'Before you start' list. Run through these first. If you are younger than 13 (first of all we are all jealous) make sure you get a parent to help sign you up to the services. You will need a working email, and a mobile device (like a phone or tablet) to get going.

James Hannam